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The Venetians’ grand fortification in Nafplio is also a landmark symbol of freedom for Greeks … and the ultimate hilltop lookout in one of Greece’s most romantic destinations.

Nowhere captures the spirit and history of Nafplio quite like Palamidi. Perhaps the finest fortification of its time in Greece, built at the start of the 18th century in an incredibly quick three years, its size represented the value placed on Nafplio by the Venetians. Unsurprisingly, it was quickly adopted by the Ottomans who converted one of its bastions into a much-feared prison. And symbolically, it was stormed by Greek revolutionaries in one fateful night in November 1822, marking Nafplio’s return to Greek hands – and, soon, its position as Greece’s first capital.

Nowadays, Nafplio is the country’s most romantic weekend escape, just 2hrs drive from Athens. And no visit is complete without exploring its landmark castle, built 216m up on a hill overlooking both the town and the Argolic Gulf. Ideally, you should attack it by stairs – 999 of them, according to legend. In reality, there are 857 to the fortress and more than 1,000 to the very top.

The first thing that strikes you is the impressive engineering – eight interconnecting (and inter-supporting) bastions, meaning that if one fell the others could be secured and come to its support.

Two bastions stand out: Miltiadis, in which revolutionary hero Theodoros Kolokotronis was later imprisoned for alleged high treason under the fledgling regency of King Otto. And Agios Andreas, also used as a prison but where conditions were better. Inside is the barrel-vaulted church where the feast day of St Andreas is celebrated in memory of the mass that was held here when Palamidi was secured by the Greeks to end Ottoman rule.

But far beyond the architecture and the sheer size of the castle-like fortification, what you’ll remember most are the panoramic views of Nafplio and the gulf beyond. Soul-filling by day and heart-melting by night, it is romantic down to the very last drop of the sea that it looks on to.

Bourtzi is another Venetian fortress, located on the islet of Agioi Theodoroi.

A trademark of the city of Nafplion, originally in this islet, located in the middle of the harbor of the city, there was a Byzantine church dedicated to saint Theodoros. It was built to ward off pirates and then, later on, became a residence for executioners of Palamidi prisoners.

From 1930 to 1970, it was used as a hotel, where visitors could check into the castle overnight.

Today, it mainly serves as a tourist attraction and the occasional host site for music festivals. You can reach the islet by boat, which regularly departs from Nafplio, especially during the summer months.

However, even if you decide to visit Nafplio as part of your ‘Christmas in Greece’ adventure, it is still worth reaching Bourtzi and marveling at its beauty. You’ll just have to look at the boat schedule that will not boast as frequent of a service.